ANCHORING

The purpose of anchoring your boat is to hold your boat in a given position on the water. Boaters should always carry an anchor and sufficient line. They should be very familiar with anchoring procedures in the event of an emergency situation such as mechanical failure, especially if the tide or wind starts to move your boat into shallow water, or out to sea. Special anchors are available for PWC (small, lightweight and easily stored).

Types of anchors and selection

Illustrations	Type of Anchor	Advantage	Disadvantage
	Mushroom	Small. Adequate for soft, sandy bottom.	Difficulty anchoring in rocky areas or hard bottoms.
	Fluke (Danforth)	Most versatile of all anchors for the recreational boater.	May become fouled in rocks.
	Plow	Strong holding power.	Heavy, large. Hold in most types of bottoms.

Ground Tackle

Ground tackle is the anchoring equipment and consists of rope, chain, shackles and the anchor itself.

Never anchor from the stern

• Stern anchoring will cause the stern to be held down and quickly flood if waves come over the stern. The bow of your boat is designed to break through waves, not the flat stern.
• Significant property and environmental damage can occur when an improperly anchored boat slips anchor (loses grip) and drifts into reefs, boats, marinas, or runs aground.
• Add about 3-6 feet of chain between the anchor and the anchor line. This added weight allows the anchor to settle quickly and helps the anchor hold into the bottom. The term “rode” means that portion of the anchor line from the boat to the anchor.

Scope

Scope is the arc of the line as it floats through the water from the boat to where it is attached to the anchor on the bottom.

• When anchoring in areas of swift (moving) water, tidal influence, or when the wind is blowing, you need a minimum of 7 to 10 times the amount of line as the depth of the water you will anchor in. It is a good practice to measure at 25 foot intervals, and mark your anchor line with a permanent marker. This will help in determining how much line is paying out.
• Calm water anchoring, with little or no wind effect, requires less scope (3 – 4 times the depth of the water).

Procedures for anchoring:

Calm Water (inland lake, ponds)

• Select your anchorage. Ensure there are no underwater cables or pipes. Avoid anchoring near power and chemical plants, military installations or under bridges.
• From the bow, make one round turn on a cleat with the anchor line.
• Lift the anchor up and over the side and slowly lower the anchor until it hits bottom. Pay out the line, using the cleat to help control the line speed. Let out an additional amount of line to ensure proper scope.
• Secure the line to your bow cleat with adequate cleat hitches.
• Coil the remaining line and store it properly.

Swift Water, Tidal Waters, Oceans and Large Lakes

• Note the depth of the water.
• Move forward (upstream or into the direction of the tide or wind) and drop anchor, allowing the line to pay out until it hits bottom.
• Pay out the additional amount of line for proper scope. The line may automatically pay out as the boat drifts and precautions need to be taken to ensure the lines pays out without becoming entangled.
• If needed, slowly back up until the anchor holds (the line will become very taunt) and will generally be at a 45-degree angle to the bow.
• Secure the line to your bow cleat with a round turn and adequate cleat hitches to secure the line.
• Coil the remaining line and store it properly.
• Note your position on the water in relation to shore structures, and other boats. Periodically check your position to ensure you at not moving or swinging too close to other boats. Movement indicates the anchor has "let go" or your swing radius is too large.

“Weighing” Anchor

• Move the boat forward in the direction of where you think the anchor is, and at the same time, bring in the slack line. Keep at least one round turn on the bow cleat. Coil the line neatly to prevent entanglement
• Once the line is tending straight up and down, pull firmly on the line to “break free” the anchor from the bottom.
• If stuck, you can reattach the line to the bow cleat and slowly back up the boat (opposite to the angle the anchor line was originally tending - circling to the right or left) enough to apply force to the line to break free the anchor. You may also drive forward (toward) the anchor to break it free - just be aware of the anchor line and it’s relationship to the propellers.
• Once aweigh, slowly raise the anchor. When you see the chain, hold the anchor line out away from the hull to prevent the chain or anchor from causing damage. If there is mud, raise and lower the anchor into the water to wash it away.
• Store the anchor and line in a secure area. When you return to the dock, or home, dry out the line.