Boating Safety Course Logo American Boat Operators' Course
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Basic Boating Information

Return to Table of Contents

1

Video Part 1

2

Boating Terms

3

Video Part 2

4

Personal Watercraft

5

Paddlesport Boats

6

Capacity

7

Hull Identification Numbers

8

Trailers and Trailering

9

Boat Ramps

10

Weather

11

Float Plans

12

Boat Maintenance

13

Fueling

14

Environmental Considerations

15

Chapter Review

TRAILERS AND TRAILERING

For many boaters, having a trailerable boat means being able to vary your boating experience by traveling to other water areas. You aren't locked into yearlong slip rental agreements or paying storage fees.  For thousands of boaters, the trailerable boat is the right choice. PWC and flat hull boats are very easily trailered and can be launched in very shallow water, while deep “V” hulled boats and sailboats require deeper water and a longer/steeper boat ramp. Good trailering skills can help boaters avoid accidents and reduce conflicts on boat ramps.

Definitions:
Boat Trailer - A vehicle designed to launch, recover, carry, or store boats.
Coupler - The forward most part of a trailer tongue that secures to the hitch ball.
Coupler Locking Lever – A mechanism designed to securely hold a trailer ball into the trailer coupler. A pin or lock is used to hold the lever in place.
Drawbar - A removable coupling that slides into a hitch receiver and fastens with a pin and clip, or for added security, a lock.
Hitch - All coupling systems, devices, and components designed to join or connect any two vehicles.
Hitch Ball - The ball-shaped attachment to a hitch onto which a trailer coupler is attached.
Hitch Receiver - The receptacle part of a trailer hitch which contains inserts such as ball mounts, drawbars or accessory carriers.

  • Class 1 (Class I) hitch - Trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight.
  • Class 2 (Class II) hitch - Trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight.
  • Class 3 (Class III) hitch - Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight.
  • Class 4 (Class IV) hitch - Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 lbs tongue weight.

Lock pin - A hitch pin that holds ball mount or other insert securely.
Safety chains - The chains that are attached to the trailer tongue with hooks on their free ends. Safety chains must be secured every time you tow.
Surge brake system – A self-contained braking system on the trailer which is activated when the tow vehicle decelerates.
Tongue - The forward part of the trailer and includes the coupler.
Tongue Weight – The amount of trailer weight at the forward part of a trailer.
Winch – Device that uses a crank (hand or mechanical) and cable or nylon strap to assist in launching and retrieving a boat.

Match the boat to the vehicle

  • Make sure your vehicle has a rated towing capacity equal to, or greater than, the boat and its trailer. PWC can be towed by nearly all types of vehicles.
  • A great source for trailering information is available at the The National Highway Transporation Safety Administration’s Web site: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/Cars/Problems/Equipment/towing/index.htm
  • Boat dealers have an automotive industry guide that states the rated towing capacity for vehicles.
  • Most vehicles can tow greater weights if coolers are installed for the engine, transmission and power steering.

Hitches and Lights

  • Hitch diagram Install a hitch with a rating that exceeds the weight of the boat.
  • Lights are required on all boat trailers. Ensure the wiring is in good condition and replace bulbs annually. After-market hitches and light kits are available and are easily installed.
  • Ensure the trailer coupler is the same size as the hitch ball (i.e., 1 7/8", 2", etc).
  • Safety chains should be at least 18” in length and of sufficient strength to hold the trailer to the vehicle in the event of hitch failure. Make sure the chains are long enough to allow the vehicle to make full left and right turns, but not so long that the chains drag on the roadway.

Trailer Maintenance

Wheels and Wheel Bearings and Brakes

    
  • Use only tires designed by the manufacturer for trailer use. 
  • Keep tire inflated as noted on the outside of the tire. Rotate tire every 3.000 miles. 
  • Replace worn or defective tire immediately. 
  • Wheel bearing should be visually inspected and re-greased at least once a year. A bad wheel bearing can cause the axel to melt and the tire to fall off. Wheel bearings that are blue in color indicate overheating and they should be replaced with new ones. 
  • Trailers that hold over 5,000 pounds are required to be fitted with mechanical brakes. The brake cable is attached to the hitch receiver on the towing vehicle. Ensure the brake system is in good mechanical condition.

Balance the Load

Approximately 5% - 10% of the total trailer weight should be on the front (tongue) of trailer. An unbalanced trailer (too much weight forward or in the back) can create an unsafe condition, especially when traveling at high speeds. "Fish Tailing" happens when the trailer weaves back and forth behind to the towing vehicle and is caused when there is too much weight on the hitch receiver and not enough weight on the trailer wheels.

Roadside Repairs

Make sure you have the proper tools to change a tire, including a small hydraulic jack and the correct size tire tool to fit the lug nuts of the trailer wheels.

Connection

Connecting the boat trailer to the vehicle is a fairly easy task, but there are certain steps that must be accomplished to make the connection safe:

  • Hitch connection Align the trailer hitch ball on the vehicle with the hitch receiver of the trailer.
  • Raise the locking lever on the receiver and slowly lower the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball by cranking the handle on the trailer wheel.
  • Seat the trailer tow ball firmly into the trailer hitch coupler.
  • Close the locking lever and install a locking pin. For added security, use a lock to secure the lever in place.
  • Attach the safety chains in a criss-cross ("X") pattern. The chains will hold the trailer if the any part of the hitch or coupler should fail.
  • Connect the lights and brake cable (if available) and test both.
  • Raise the trailer wheel and lock into a vertical position.

Towing

  • Inspect the trailer’s wheel bearings often. Have the bearing grease changed at least once a year.
  • Check the tire pressure. If equipped with brakes, have them serviced regularly.
  • Ensure the winch cable, safety hook and all tie-downs are securely fastened before moving the trailer.
  • Attach additional tie-down straps and inspect the interior of the boat for any loose objects that may fly out if not properly stored. Lower and secure the canopy top.
  • Start off slowly and note the added weight of the trailer will make vehicle starts and stops an entirely new experience. It may take 2 to 3 times the braking distance to stop your vehicle with a trailer as it does without one. Pulling into traffic will be slow and cumbersome. Use mirrors often.
  • Right-hand turns are the most difficult and require a wide turning radius.
  • Avoid unnecessary lane changes.

Backing-up

If you are just learning how to tow a boat, practice backing-up in a vacant parking lot before you ever get to a ramp.

  • One method for backing that seems to work well is using the side-view mirrors and having a spotter. By using the mirrors, it is fairly easy to determine the angle of the trailer in relation to the towing vehicle.
  • A tip is to place your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel when backing. The direction your hand turns will be the same as the trailer.
  • Determining large turning angles can be accomplished but takes practice.
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